Thursday, June 25, 2009

Part 2 of 3 - How to Custom Fit Your Bike

MarketBoy continues with custom fitting your comfy bike.

Saddle Height

With the right frame size, you’ll be able to set your correct saddle height, which will be within a centimeter of 0.883 x inseam length, measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the low point of the top of your saddle. This allows full leg extension, with a slight bend in the leg at the bottom of the pedal stroke.

It is recommended to shorten this length by 3mm when using clipless pedals. Also, you might consider a slightly taller saddle height if you ride with your toes down and your heel raised. Most importantly, make any changes in saddle height gradually, and give your body time to adapt to the new position.

Neutral Knee Position

Next, put your bike in a stationary trainer, raising the front wheel to level the bike. Check your position with a video camera or mirrors in front and to the side, or with the help of a friend. Position your cleats with the ball of your foot directly over the pedal axle, and in line with any natural "toe-in" or "toe-out" foot position. Warm up by riding easily for 8–10 minutes.


Then, as you continue to look ahead, slowly stop pedaling, and bring the cranks to rest at horizontal, parallel to the ground. Check the position of your forward knee relative to the pedal spindle —for a "neutral knee position," you’ll be able to drop a plumb line from just below the front of the forward kneecap, and have it bisect the pedal spindle and ball of your foot below. Remember to not raise or drop your heel or hip as you check this. Then, move the saddle fore or aft, as needed, to achieve this neutral position.


The neutral knee position serves as a good starting point for most cyclists, though many adjust it from here: long distance (stage) racers and mountain bikers often move the saddle back by 1cm or more, for power, and sprinters may move it forward, “getting on top of the gear” for quick acceleration.

One more note on frame size and geometry: if you cannot move the saddle back far enough to get your knee to the neutral position, you should look for a frame with a more relaxed seat tube angle, or consider a slightly larger frame; if you have trouble moving the saddle forward enough, look for a steeper seat tube angle on your next frame, or consider a smaller frame. For most frames, a seat tube angle shallower by 1° moves the seat lug 1cm back, relative to the bottom bracket.

Finally, recheck your saddle height. If you’ve moved your saddle forward or back, you’ve effectively shortened or lengthened your saddle height, and will need to readjust it.

Team Coach's Tri-Bike

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

The Two Extremes

Earlier this month, MarketBoy received an email on the World's Most Expensive MarketBike... Coated with 24K Gold, lined with Swarovski crystals and only 10 pieces produced in the world, the classic set up has a price tag of $124,888.00


And then a couple of days later, MarketBoy received another email informing about the Sale at Giant Hypermart.

Lai ah... Lelong Lelong $49.90 nia...


Got 4 wheels some more...

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

How to Custom Fit Your Bike (Part 1 of 3)

MarketBoy is here to share some insights about custom fitting your bike. Forget the in’s and out’s of carbon vs. aluminum frames, Specialized vs. Pinaraello, the one thing matters more than anything else when you select your new bike — that it fits you!

When a cyclist fits her bike well, she rides more comfortably and efficiently. She rides with more power, and yet the effort comes easier to her. Her body is relaxed, her bike handling skills almost second nature.

True, setting up your ideal position on a bike takes some time, and can be difficult. Why? We roadies hear conflicting advice, and conflicting formulas, on sizing and positioning. Variances in body sizes and proportions, in levels of fitness and flexibility, in technique and style, all affect a rider’s best position on the bike. Truthfully, though, the best resource you have is your own experience, especially when teamed with feedback from knowledgeable cycling kakis.

So, here we go…


Your Inseam and Frame Size

The best frame size for a cyclist is as small vertically as possible, with enough length horizontally to allow a stretched out, relaxed upper body. This frame will be lighter and stiffer than a larger one, and will handle better and be more comfortable than a smaller one.


Determine Your Proper Frame Size

To determine your proper frame size, you’ll first need to get an accurate inseam measurement. Stand with your back against a wall, your bare feet 6" (15cm) apart on a hard floor, looking straight ahead. Place a book between your legs with one edge against the wall, and pull it up firmly into your crotch, simulating the pressure of your saddle while riding. Have a helper measure from the top edge of the book to the floor, in centimeters. Repeat two or three times, for consistency, and average the results to get your inseam length.

Frame Size

Frame size refers to the length of the frame’s seat tube. Pro frames are measured along the seat tube in one of two ways, center-to-top (C-T) or center-to-center (C-C). C-T measures the distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the top tube or seat lug (See image bellow). C-C measures from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the top tube. Since C-T measures to a point higher on the frame, a frame measuring 55cm C-T would also measure roughly 53.5–54cm C-C, a difference of 1–1.5cm.

To size your C-T road frame, we use a guideline of 0.67 x inseam length. For example, if you have an 85cm inseam, your C-T frame size would be 0.67 x 85cm, or 57cm.

Greg LeMond’s formula, from his former coach, Cyrille Guimard, establishes C-C size by the formula .65 x inseam length, which yields virtually the same frame size when you add the 1–1.5cm difference between C-C and C-T.

Larger riders (>1.8m) may find that this formula puts them on a too small, and uncomfortable, road frame. A taller cyclist who wants a more comfortable frame may be better off selecting a frame 27–28cm less than inseam length, C-T.



Frame Dimensions

A1 Seat Tube Length (C—T)
A2 Seat Tube Length (C—C)
B Top Tube length (C—C)
C Stem Length (C—C)

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Helmet Size & Fitting: How to Measure Your Head

Use a cloth tape or IKEA paper tape to make your first measurement.

The circumference of the head should be measured at a point approximately 1 inch above the eyebrows, go round the head to make the measurement. Take several measurements and get the largest reading.

Size of helmet

* Medium: 55 - 59cm (21.75"-23.25")
* Large: 60 - 64cm (23.25"-24.75")