Last Part - 3 of 3 - How to Custom Fit Your Bike

Top Tube and Stem Length

Next, dial in the correct "reach" to the bar, or horizontal fit. Proper reach gives you easier breathing, better neck and lower back comfort, and better weight distribution and bike handling.
That "ideal position" varies here more than anywhere else for cyclists, depending on riding style, flexibility, body proportions, and frame geometry, among others. And, your upper body position will evolve with more hours in the saddle. That is, you may find that you develop a lower, longer position as your fitness and flexibility improve. As Davis Phinney notes, though it may be difficult to achieve a truly flat back, we cyclists should all strive to be “longer” across the top of the bike.

Unfortunately, there is no formula for sizing the top tube and stem that works as well as the inseam method. One indicator comes from glancing down at the front hub while riding in the drops; your view of the front hub should be obstructed by the handlebar. LeMond recommends that your elbows, bent at 65–70° with your hands in the drops, should be within an inch or two of your knees at the top of your stroke.

Measure your current bike’s top tube and stem. Then, decide how you’d like to alter that fit; add the top tube length to the stem length to get your overall top dimension. This is the very reason why stems come in 1cm increments from 7cm to 14cm, just to let you dial in your best top tube and stem length.

Handlebar Size

Road handlebars come in several widths and bends. Most cyclists select a bar that is just as wide as their shoulders, measured as the distance between the shoulder joints. A wider bar opens the chest for better breathing and more leverage, but is less aerodynamic. You’ll need to find your own balance between the two.

Crank Length, Gearing

Choosing the right crank arm length, like the rest of this, comes down to your size and riding style. Longer cranks give you more leverage, helpful if you like to push big gears at a low cadence (climbing, time trialing, etc.). On the other hand, if you like to spin at a high cadence, you’ll do better with standard cranks. As a starting point, we often recommend 170mm cranks on 54cm C-T road frames and smaller, 170–172.5mm cranks on 55–61cm frames, and 172.5–175mm cranks on 62cm frames and larger.

We offer a wide range of gearing options for chainrings and cassettes. Depending on your strength and terrain, you’re welcome to specify the close-ratio gearing generally used for racing, or wider ratios for hilly terrain or more recreational riding.

19 July 2009 Report

The Sunday started as usual but it seem quieter than the normal weekend at East Coast, it could be probably due to the absence of ladies in this part of the island. I am not in any way implying the ladies are the noisy lot of people, but I remember some smart wise old man told me a man equal to 100 ducks but a lady match at least 100,000 ducks. What does that means? I wonder, and still wondering till this very day.

Near to the Singapore Flyer, 8000 ladies and non-registered free-loader enthusiasts of all shapes and ages were gathered for the flagging off of the 2nd year running event - Shape Run. The prize is a memorial bracelet from the hand of 6 sexy butler hunks at Millennia walk end point, but before they got to touch the hand of the hanks each lady must run, walk or crawl for 5 km or 10 km depending what routes they take and whether they run on the right track.

Back at East Coast, the men rolled off as silent as the surrounding. No surging, no life anymore and the routine pedaling accompany with the expressionless face, the reasons I believe was because all the women suddenly seems disappear overnight from the small little red dot. For those men who think you can live without a woman, think twice and think hard again. Looking at the pathetic faces, I thought it might be better to opt for the noise of 100,000 ducks then the regular silent nights.

The yet-to-form GatorRoadees team was shaping up well, the effect of months of hell training from the remote control coach (coach have not appeared for a while but gave instructions remotely) yielded result despite the misery and the lack of motivation from the absence of many 100,000 ducks the riders faced in the morning. The ten riders were able to put down all the sorrows and kept their focus to do what they do best now, cycling in 2 neat columns. The speed was kept constant at 37km/hr for quite a while along Coastal road with each rider taking turn to pull the group. The speed on my speedometer at one point hit 39 km/hr, what an achievement for a bunch of people who used to do at 27 km/hr.

While the hunky butlers were within sight, but the trays were empty. Where was the prize? The memorial bracelet the organiser promised to every Shape runner were nowhere to be found? Many runners were devastated with the announcement that the prizes were out of stock even though 8800 pieces were prepared for the officially registered 8000 runners. The promises but no delivery snag was not totally the organiser’s fault as many runners collected the bracelet with both hands, one at each hand. And the non-registered runners who also wanted to have a feel of the muscular hunk hand took away some from the stock pile.

The lessons learned from the Shape run were that it does not matter what shape you are or how fast you run. If you are a registered runner, it is important to reach the end point fast by all means. Run the shorter course, or make a wrong turn to reach the end point before others or totally not register for the event at all but use the money to buy one of those bracelets from runners who have got extra pieces, just to name a few ways for future reference. Obviously there are many other ways to get your hand on one of that small little bend. If you really need that so badly than snatch it from someone who are exhausted and in bad shape after the Shape run and no longer able to run after you when you flee the scene.

Roti pratas have become the latest favour for all the riders, apparently it gives higher energy level than the bananas we have been fed all this while. According to HAS (Health Authority of Singapore) the plain prata gives 122 Kcal and with egg, the energy level shoot up to 289 kcal. No wonder everyone would not leave Changi Village without stuffing at least one of those dough in the belly, it offers that extra booster. With the energy burned from the ride less than or equal to the input energy from the roti prata and banana, the end result on the waist line do not seem to shrink but inflate with more rides.

Nicky Ting

Did you realise the last disappointment actually turned out to be a blessing in disguise

Time to Slow Down and Smell the Rose

MarketBoy took a break from market work in July, caught a 48-seater propellor plane at Seletar Airport and flew direct to Pulau Redang.

Oh, the island is beautiful. The sand is powdery white and the sea is crystal blue. Something we will not get it at ECP or anywhere in Singapore.

Part 2 of 3 - How to Custom Fit Your Bike

MarketBoy continues with custom fitting your comfy bike.

Saddle Height

With the right frame size, you’ll be able to set your correct saddle height, which will be within a centimeter of 0.883 x inseam length, measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the low point of the top of your saddle. This allows full leg extension, with a slight bend in the leg at the bottom of the pedal stroke.

It is recommended to shorten this length by 3mm when using clipless pedals. Also, you might consider a slightly taller saddle height if you ride with your toes down and your heel raised. Most importantly, make any changes in saddle height gradually, and give your body time to adapt to the new position.

Neutral Knee Position

Next, put your bike in a stationary trainer, raising the front wheel to level the bike. Check your position with a video camera or mirrors in front and to the side, or with the help of a friend. Position your cleats with the ball of your foot directly over the pedal axle, and in line with any natural "toe-in" or "toe-out" foot position. Warm up by riding easily for 8–10 minutes.


Then, as you continue to look ahead, slowly stop pedaling, and bring the cranks to rest at horizontal, parallel to the ground. Check the position of your forward knee relative to the pedal spindle —for a "neutral knee position," you’ll be able to drop a plumb line from just below the front of the forward kneecap, and have it bisect the pedal spindle and ball of your foot below. Remember to not raise or drop your heel or hip as you check this. Then, move the saddle fore or aft, as needed, to achieve this neutral position.


The neutral knee position serves as a good starting point for most cyclists, though many adjust it from here: long distance (stage) racers and mountain bikers often move the saddle back by 1cm or more, for power, and sprinters may move it forward, “getting on top of the gear” for quick acceleration.

One more note on frame size and geometry: if you cannot move the saddle back far enough to get your knee to the neutral position, you should look for a frame with a more relaxed seat tube angle, or consider a slightly larger frame; if you have trouble moving the saddle forward enough, look for a steeper seat tube angle on your next frame, or consider a smaller frame. For most frames, a seat tube angle shallower by 1° moves the seat lug 1cm back, relative to the bottom bracket.

Finally, recheck your saddle height. If you’ve moved your saddle forward or back, you’ve effectively shortened or lengthened your saddle height, and will need to readjust it.

Team Coach's Tri-Bike

The Two Extremes

Earlier this month, MarketBoy received an email on the World's Most Expensive MarketBike... Coated with 24K Gold, lined with Swarovski crystals and only 10 pieces produced in the world, the classic set up has a price tag of $124,888.00

And then a couple of days later, MarketBoy received another email informing about the Sale at Giant Hypermart.

Lai ah... Lelong Lelong $49.90 nia...

Got 4 wheels some more...

How to Custom Fit Your Bike (Part 1 of 3)

MarketBoy is here to share some insights about custom fitting your bike. Forget the in’s and out’s of carbon vs. aluminum frames, Specialized vs. Pinaraello, the one thing matters more than anything else when you select your new bike — that it fits you!

When a cyclist fits her bike well, she rides more comfortably and efficiently. She rides with more power, and yet the effort comes easier to her. Her body is relaxed, her bike handling skills almost second nature.

True, setting up your ideal position on a bike takes some time, and can be difficult. Why? We roadies hear conflicting advice, and conflicting formulas, on sizing and positioning. Variances in body sizes and proportions, in levels of fitness and flexibility, in technique and style, all affect a rider’s best position on the bike. Truthfully, though, the best resource you have is your own experience, especially when teamed with feedback from knowledgeable cycling kakis.

So, here we go…


Your Inseam and Frame Size

The best frame size for a cyclist is as small vertically as possible, with enough length horizontally to allow a stretched out, relaxed upper body. This frame will be lighter and stiffer than a larger one, and will handle better and be more comfortable than a smaller one.


Determine Your Proper Frame Size

To determine your proper frame size, you’ll first need to get an accurate inseam measurement. Stand with your back against a wall, your bare feet 6" (15cm) apart on a hard floor, looking straight ahead. Place a book between your legs with one edge against the wall, and pull it up firmly into your crotch, simulating the pressure of your saddle while riding. Have a helper measure from the top edge of the book to the floor, in centimeters. Repeat two or three times, for consistency, and average the results to get your inseam length.

Frame Size

Frame size refers to the length of the frame’s seat tube. Pro frames are measured along the seat tube in one of two ways, center-to-top (C-T) or center-to-center (C-C). C-T measures the distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the top tube or seat lug (See image bellow). C-C measures from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the top tube. Since C-T measures to a point higher on the frame, a frame measuring 55cm C-T would also measure roughly 53.5–54cm C-C, a difference of 1–1.5cm.

To size your C-T road frame, we use a guideline of 0.67 x inseam length. For example, if you have an 85cm inseam, your C-T frame size would be 0.67 x 85cm, or 57cm.

Greg LeMond’s formula, from his former coach, Cyrille Guimard, establishes C-C size by the formula .65 x inseam length, which yields virtually the same frame size when you add the 1–1.5cm difference between C-C and C-T.

Larger riders (>1.8m) may find that this formula puts them on a too small, and uncomfortable, road frame. A taller cyclist who wants a more comfortable frame may be better off selecting a frame 27–28cm less than inseam length, C-T.



Frame Dimensions

A1 Seat Tube Length (C—T)
A2 Seat Tube Length (C—C)
B Top Tube length (C—C)
C Stem Length (C—C)